The Lead-Up
Headed up through Denver to experience my first Class 3 . . . The Sawtooth. I picked up some food, filled up my water, gassed up my truck, checked my oil, topped off my coolant, stopped to get Subway, and I was off…to a later start than usual. After working all day, and then helping my sister move a freezer afterward, I was too tired to even make it through Castle Rock.
As I begin to write this, I think . . . I should be camping at Torrey’s trailhead right now. I usually get exceptionally tired on the drives to the trailheads, sometimes to the point it’s dangerous. Last time I didn’t arrive at the trailhead until about midnight or shortly thereafter. This time would be different. I have labor day off and can afford some extra time. It’s not worth running off the road before this journey even begins. I stopped and slept in the Safeway parking lot in Castle Rock.
My alarm went off at 5am. I knew it was too late now. I picked up some toothpaste, walked around the store a little and thought about grabbing some Starbucks. I don’t think I’ve ever been in a modern looking Safeway. It reminded me of the new King Soopers look.
The traffic on I-70 West was terrible. Most likely due to volume and labor day weekend, which still never really makes sense to me how traffic doesn’t move when there isn’t a wreck or closure, but I guess I’ll chalk that up to the laws of nature. I spent hours behind the wheel. This is why I leave the night before . . .
I did take an exit and explore Central City. I was impressed by the Monarch casino that was built into the mountain. GPS seemed to have wanted to detour me. Then get me right back on I-70. I looked it as it was different scenery.
Take the Georgetown exit. Don’t let GPS tell you any different. Guenella Pass makes for some stunning views. I have to say this was my favorite drive to date, especially given that it’s September. I arrived around 1:30p and, as suspected, the place was packed full of cars lining the road down the pass.
As I lay under a full moon, I prepare for my early start tomorrow. Maybe I can see the sunrise from atop the mountain. I can hear a moose within maybe 100 feet of me. Cars are still showing up and people loading out. It just quit raining not too long ago as I figured it would when the clouds started blowing in and forming above the peak. I definitely don’t want to get caught in the gully between Bierstadt and Evans in the dark.
Mt. Bierstadt
It’s 3am. Clear skies now. Put on my boots. Grabbed my pack. Turn on the headlamp. Let’s go. 3:27a
Several things I notice on the trail up Bierstadt is how well built it is. There are bridges leading across the willows, pole markers, and steps every few feet. If you feel you are off trail, then you are. I managed to stay on the trail the entire way even in the dark. It’s not hard to find.
When one reaches the creek, I suggest you hang left and find the opening to cross the creek. Crossing the creek where the trail looked like wet boots (I guess if you’re up for it, then go for it).
There is one section, once one reaches the steeper terrain, which is also mentioned in the route description of 14ers.com, where one should go right instead of continuing straight. I feel like one can easily miss this in the dark. Just stop and reassess every so often and you’ll be good. I imagine in the daylight it’s easy to spot. Turn around and see the line of lights heading up the trail in the dark. It looks as if the trail was naturally lit up.
Reached the summit around 6:34a. It was treacherously freezing. I imagine the wind factor could have easily brought the temperatures down to below freezing. I have yet to be that cold on a summit. I had four layers on and was still shivering. At least I got to watch the sun rise over Evans. It was stunning. There were only three that had passed me on my way up, and two of them (with their dog) shared the summit with me at this moment.
Sawtooth
To be honest, pictures and video don’t do this mountain justice looking at it from atop Bierstadt. It really is a mean looking mountain. There was a gentleman that came up behind me after I slowed down close to the summit, who threw on his helmet and headed over to Sawtooth. Another came up behind him a few minutes later. Put on a red down jacket and red helmet and followed.
A woman headed over after snacking, and another man from Chicago in an orange jacket began doing the same. I decided to go for it. On went my helmet. It’s game time. “Are you going for it?” He asked me. “Good luck” 7:43a
He wound up passing me on the way down and within no time I could see him a ways ahead of me in that orange jacket if his. I made the mistake of following both of them down into the gully, which was the wrong route to take (even if there were cairns). I made it so much harder for myself and had no way of making it back over to the standard route when I tried. This was hell. I was more concerned about falling and twisting my ankle or having a rock fall out from beneath me. The terrain was rough and talus exceptionally loose.
I studied this route, brought the description and photos with me, and watched the GoPro videos of it . . . I still managed to mess up and make it so much worse for myself.
10:24a Reached the Gendarme. Chose the lower route the goes along the right and climbs up. Now the real climbing begins. I had to take my pack off at one point and chuck it since I had a hard time crawling through a crack in the rocks. I got through it. Let some climbers pass me and got up to another vertical area. I got through all that and to the top.
There was a gentleman who slipped and smacked his head against a rock. He was with the party of guys you were one in front of me and now I was among them. One of them climbed down to the gully to get the GoPro that feel of his head. They bandaged him up and he kept climbing. There really isn’t much of a bailout point you start the Sawtooth. The group was part of a bachelor party and were from Missouri. For most of them, this was their first time at altitude or on a 14er. One did the Grand Canyon, but reiterated this was no way in comparison. They admitted they had no idea what they were getting into.
We got up to the ridge and took a breather. Two of the gentlemen had chosen to climb up the vertical route on the Gendarme and met the others. The route around was longer, but I don’t know how I would compare the difficulty. This is really the worst of it.
One of the gentlemen made a comment about my helmet and I had to remind him his friend wasn’t wearing a helmet. I’m wearing one for that very reason.
One drops down to the ledges then head over to the crest. Maneuver along the side. I scratched my helmet as I was going under a rock. Again, that could have been my head. Not a whole lot of foot traffic, but still a good share of people climbing.
I would not recommend going straight up the talus as it’s steep and loose. If one slips, it could take you off the Sawtooth and that’s it. We hung right and took the upper route. The climber in front of me kicked a rock down and it bounced off my helmet. I shouted up, “that’s why you wear a helmet.” Got to the opening right before that final stretch up to the Sawtooth summit. 11:56a
The gentleman with the head injury was going to head back to camp at Bierstadt trailhead, through the Willows, with another member of the party.
Mt. Evans
I was headed to Evans and four followed. I helped backdate then in their way. Summited the Sawtooth at 12:25p. Left for Evans at 12:53. The trail was class two and easy to locate. Along the way, I noticed plenty of touristy people with their tennis shoes and lack of water. One couple looked in rough shape and we had to give water to them. “Either you take the water or someone is going to pick your bodies of the mountain” is how I presented it to them. Another group started caring their dogs.
Another member of the Missouri party started getting sick and we gave him water and took his pack. It appeared to be more from dehydration than altitude. We were already close to the hundreds of people on Evans. Cars lined the road and the parking lot was PACKED. When we got to Evans, he sat down and was given anti-nausea meds from someone in the parking area. Kudos to you. 3:07p
We went to the actual summit (not where the sign is at for all the pictures). Ones of the party members asked the Rangers if they saw their friend. Turns it he was sent down the mountain. He had fallen on his way up the saith just before one reaches the notch and slide to the bottom of the gully. He managed to hike back up Evans and get help.
We wound up jumping in the back of a truck. Best described in these words, “I’m just going to tell my mom that I’m on a road down a mountain doing 40 in the back of some guys pickup.” The road up Evans is certainly enough to keep your heart racing.
5:07p. We waited at the base, near the gift shop, where they were picked up. They took me back to my truck, where we said our goodbyes and I told Clay congratulations on the marriage. This was a great group of guys. Alpine Mountain Rescue was in the parking lot heading up to search for a lost hiker. 7:37p
I think it was in that moment I realized what a day it had been and how much an adventure it was. My first class 3… In the books. I was going to try and hit another peak, instead, I’m going home…
I leave the reader with this final note, and one I will reiterate as I continue to explore this backyard of mine, come prepared, stay hydrated, know what you’re getting into, and don’t forget that no one is invincible. It’s up to all of us to ensure everyone has a safe climbing experience.
Oh, and bring a helmet!
